Cliff Head. All of you who were asking for updates on primo camping spots, put this one in your iphone - it's south of Geraldton, with just a tiny sign in the middle of nowhere, and it's incredible. Looking up from my laptop right this second I can see past the tea trees over the water to a Turner-esque sunset. It was sheer luck that I even glimpsed the sign - I recalled that HoboHome had it down as one of their favourite places, so I did a U-turn and here I am.
As you pull in you think, well what a hole - confronted by two huge rubbish skips and a logjam of merry grey nomads madly running their generators. But take either of the sand tracks to the north or south and there are miles of beautiful little campsites. Because of the storms, the beach is piled a metre high with seaweed & we have more frigging rain forecast, but who cares, it's wonderful.
Ran into the notorious Baird Bay drunken nomads again; they turned out to be quite charming when sober. Their technique for free camping is to pull up wherever they fancy, then immediately start drinking heavily so that they're legally incapable of driving if a ranger tries to move them on. So perhaps the astonishing quantity of vodka that I seem to have accumulated among my farewell gifts will prove to be quite handy.
Smokey again becomes star of the camp area, following us on a very long walk & allowing his acolytes to pat him at various campsites. "Oh, you're the lady with the cat!" greets us as we stroll along - his legend precedes him wherever we go. He kills me. Whenever he's had enough, he just waits regally in the bushes until we come back.
Will post photos later, need to get on to the vodka before the ranger comes round.
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