Exmouth is a weird, weird little place. Originally a sort of hush-hush James Bond cold war navy & RAAF base (why? why here?), it now mingles sinister navsatcomm radar towers & "top secret stay out" signs with more whale shark tour operators than you could poke a speargun at. For some reason, all the takeaway places close during the afternoon at about the exact time that most people are craving fish & chips (perhaps they are being briefed for clandestine night missions), and again we are not disappointed in our expectations of charmless cinder block bunker architecture. In order to be close to the snorkel tours, I've had to resort to a caravan park, ick.
But the area outside the town is fantastic. Miles and miles of red earth / sage bush / termite mounds, stunning ocean vistas, and a hilly range that runs the length of the peninsula, full of enticing gorges. I spent the day exploring & swimming, found a dead dugong, and drove out to Yardie Homestead which is where I would really prefer to be camping (it's a long way out of town).
Also had a confusing but happy conversation with Duncan, who, in his usual exuberant distracted way, has way too many jobs lined up and is juggling trailers, cool room, ute and caravan up and down the highway. He's organised some kind of weekly accommodation for us in Carnarvon but apart from that all I got a grip on in the conversation were the words "plantation", "sheds", "swimming pool in a tank", "shower block", "roo shooting at Kevin's", "I'm so happy!" and "When are you coming home!" He cracks me up. I wonder what tomorrow's plan will be?
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| Wildflowers and the top of the Exmouth peninsula |
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| Vlamingh Head lighthouse - Duncan says I should just paint the Qantas kangaroo on the bus |
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| Scenic dead dugong |
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| Great place for a secret navy base |
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