Saturday May 7
A kind of "tick the box" sightseeing day along the coast towards Streaky Bay. Inselbergs called "Murphy's Haystacks" fall into the "WEIRD OR WHAT?" category, then long boring drive along more desolate coastal plains to Westall Way, which is dramatic but mostly just views rather than places to walk.
Pause in Streaky Bay to fill up with water & buy insanely expensive groceries, then to another tiny fishing village called Haslam where the campground is PACKED with grey nomads relaxing next to their rows of generators. In keeping with traditional Aussie caravan park design, the site is placed on the beachfront in such a way that the only view is of a large abandoned shed and some rubbish bins.
Smokey alights from the bus and rapidly becomes a sensation with fans gathering around.
From the jetty, as the sun sets, I can see the hazy flat coastline of the Nullarbor disappearing off into forever. There will be no more shopping malls for at least 1300 kilometres. How will we survive?
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